I used the JP Ryan corset pattern http://www.jpryan.com/details/hbstays.html . that I bought at Costume College 2009 http://www.costumecollege.org/
|Laying out the pattern last fall.|
I used white coutil, fashion fabric and interlined all the pieces with a stiff organza. I didn't want a heavy corset and this particular style is lightly boned. Additionally, I am not a large person but busty and without hips so I need support and a little shaping.
|Putting it together - fashion fabric seen. The back has not been added yet.|
Next came the binding...okay machine or hand sew? I learned last time that though it is a tedious process and takes for blinking ever, hand sewing is the only way to go and using anything heavier than dress or shirt weight silk is a nightmare. So, I use a scarf weight silk, cut in bias stripes for my bindings. In hindsight this was a bit thin but it was very easy to manipulate.
|Getting the bias strips around the outside edges - lots-o-pins!|
|Getting around the inside corners I used a separate needle and thread to gather the strips to fit then pinned.|
|A section finished...hours later!|
|Done...This isn't fitting well in the mannequin but looks great on me. Sorry no pics of that.|
|Back. I lace with a loop at waist area to get myself in the corset.|
Again, I didn't follow the sewing/construction instructions to the letter so there may have some things I should have done to make this perfect but as it is, it works for me.
My next set of stays will be Tudor/Elizabethan. I haven't made one in years but plan to do something like:
Thank you Gwendolyn-Eugenie Costumes for this image.
|Thank you - go to above link for original image and explanation.|
then cut it to lace up the front. This is the drawing board plan...now to get cracking on it.