Musings of a Lady

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Le Modiste: A summer of underwear

This summer I decided that my goal is to put together a variety of under garments for period clothing that I want to have for future use.  I have exclaimed, numerous times, how I hate sewing for events ergo at the last minute.  Well, this summer I am making period clothing with no deadline.  Starting with the undies is important especially since the periods I like to wear require a specific silhouette.  With that said, I do have a Victorian corset custom made from Dark Garden  However, due to changes in my figure I have to get it altered...soon but is a great corset for late Victorian garments (1880's-up).  What I decided I needed is a lightly boned Victorian that could be used for early Victorian to 1870's.  I decided to use the Past Pattern #708 for this purpose and fabric I found in my stash.

The fashion fabric is a silk taffeta with embroidered rose buds.
As this is a lean, 'staycation' that I am enjoying till I go back to work in August, using fabrics from the 'stash' is great!  Its like going shopping in your home!  :)   The fabric I picked (above) is a creamy while taffeta with rose buds. At first I thought, Lordy! Me at 55 with rosebuds on my corset and then I thought about it again, why not?  They aren't sweet pink rose buds so I may be okay...hey, its my undies, right?  So, they can be of whatever fabric I want. 

One side sewn up.  There will be a busk down the front and laced down the center back.

I top-stitched the gussets in red to add a wee bit of interest.

The binding is red silk taffeta (had to buy that).

I only had a little over a half yard of fabric, so I had to adjust the instructions.  For example the center back piece is cut on the fold and therefore is self lined by using the fold at the center back.  

I rather enjoyed making this.  I plugged in Larkrise to Candleford series and happily sewed away!  The one glitch I had was the  bust gussets.  I cut the gussets for a C cup (by bra cup size) and it ended up being a bit big so I had to gather it a bit before I bound it in the red taffeta.  Cutting gussets has a wee bit on the bias and when you slit your foundation garment to fit in the gussets well some stretch may occur?  Not sure if that is the reason or I should have used the B cup gussets.  Anyway, the gathering helped.

Gathered at the bust gusset.
At this point I just have to hand sew the binding on the inside of the corset and get the lacing openings (grommets) in.  I usually use 00 grommets for my corsets hope that will work.  I have it in my stash... 

In the meantime - I started working on a Tudor corset.  I decided in the end to use the Simplicity Tudor corset.  It was on hand - again using what I have in stock already.  I have a stash of dark blue silk dupioni and also in a kelly green - the colors are not really showing up well in the picture above, sorry.  The base of the corset will be blue and the bindings green.  Why am I making a Tudor corset? Well, it is a good basic line for a couple of future Elizabethan's I want to make.  GBACG (Greater Bay Area Costume Guild) is having Shakespearean picnic in September and later on and I may attend a mini-Renaissance Faire in Sebastopol, California (also in September) that raises money for the local schools and God knows they need the funding as all schools do!  Also, next spring there is a Renaissance encampment that annually happens that I have been wanting to attend.  Ergo, I need a Tudor corset.  Will keep you posted on that project as I move along.  It is cut out and the tabs made:

 As I work on the Tudor corset, I will keep you posted and any other project that comes to light over the next few weeks of my vacation which has been gloriously sunny, warm and just plain joyful! 


Lauren R said...

that is a gorgeous corset! Can't wait to see the whole thing complete and on. Love the red on white :-)

Angela said...

Thanks Lauren! Will finish it off next week. I took a break and will finish a bodice for an 18th century picnic a friend is giving this weekend. Cheers.

Catherine said...

Did I give you that fabric? I used to have a half yard of it myself. Awesome corset!

Angela said...

Yep, you gave me that fabric, thanks!

Lucia said...

(: The Simplicity Tudor Corset is great !

I already sewed one :