Le Modiste: Finally! My Enfourreau is done!

Hello everyone!  Last fall I started working on an en fourreau or English back gown.  The gown was draped and worked entirely by hand.  Laugh-ou-loud - a friend of mine calls this my vegan dress since a machine was not used.   I got to wear it to an event last Saturday and I have to say that I think I did a pretty good job.  Whoa, was I being a little immodest here?  Yep!  :)  I am really proud of this little ensemble.  I am sorry I don't have more pictures,  but the next time I wear it I will certainly make sure that I get more detailed shots.  Oh, notice the shoes!  I got my period mules from Burnley and Trowbridge (link will be provided below).  The mules are soooooooo comfortable and beautifully made.

Next post:  1930's day dress

http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/  They are an excellent family owned business that provides period sewing supplies, garments and other items to support historical re-enactment.  They mostly focus on 18th century.  Check them out!

Le Modiste: En Fourreau Part 2

Hello!  I  have been making progress on the Polonaise en fourreau.  What I am working on now is the back piece.  The back is one piece of fabric that starts with a dart from the neck to waist (1/4" to 2") then pleated while on the body to create the shaped 'V' and then the inverted pleat at the 'tail-bone'.  This was done with the fashion fabric.  The lining is a rectangle cut the length of neck to waist and darted just the same but not pleated.

The lining is folded and darted.  It is then attached to the fashion fabric which is darted then pleated and pinned in place.

The pinned pleats - I ironed them to help me keep it even.

Detail of pleats pinned.

Sewing through all layers I am using a Mantua stitch. I think mine are too close and tight. Not sure.

When you are done the inside looks like this.

Detail:  The stitches.

I am using linen thread.  It is thicker than regular modern cotton covered poly threads we have now.  This was borrowed from a friend till I can order what I need from Burnley and Trowbridge.
http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/


Next up:  Finish stitching down the pleats, then cut and put the sleeves together.  The sleeves were draped on my arm - using an extra piece of lining fabric and I will use it as a pattern.