Le Modiste: Finished 18th century pocket

I am really proud of myself that I finally finished a UFO!  This pocket was started I think...last year?  In any case, it is done.  I just need to add the belt so I can tie it to my waist.  I used scrap fabric from a short gown (how period) that  I made a couple of years ago to bind the edges.  Here are the final stages and the finished product:

In the process of binding the edges.  I basted the front to the back first then hand stitched the binding on.

Close up of binding being hand stitched.

Close up of the final embroidery.

Finished pocket without belt. 

The entire pocket was done by hand.  The embroidery and the assembly.  Phew!  You know, I really like sewing by hand and doing embroidery.  Machine of course is faster and precise but there is great deal of satisfaction when sewing by hand.  Well, at least for me.  I know it is not everyone's source of enjoyment.

Next up?  My summer plans will need to be flexible as I may be involved in taking care of my Mom who might have knee replacement surgery at 84 years of age. However, the following are my sewing 'hopefuls' this summer:

UFO's:  The idea is to get these done so I can go to something new.
Finish 1947 day dress (Started it summer of 2011)
Remake a Victorian corset ( the other pretty fell a part).
Finish my Pierrot.  (Started it summer of 2011)
Go through my 1880's bustle dresses (day/evening) and see if they need altering.  If yes - alter or move on to someone else.

Regular sewing:
A couple of Summer dresses a la new look
Recover a wing back chair (not costuming but I need to do it)
Recover the seat of a piano stool
Make cushions for a patio bench - I want to get out doors more - my little garden
 
Historical Dress Wish List:
Regency corset  - deadline up in the air
Regency Pelisse - deadline up in the air.
1850's Riding habit or a la militaire ensemble.  Deadline - December 2012
1890's Day Suit  - December 30 2012

Whoa! Big list and very little time.   Once I get my sewing space cleared of clutter and summer vacation begins - in one week! - I will start posting on my progress. 

Images: 18th century images of Gen coleur

I was having a leisurely morning with my bowl of mocha and found a wonderful blog http://madameisistoilette.blogspot.com/  Madame Isis' Toilette.  Through her site I kept wondering around and found a couple of images in her Pinterest http://pinterest.com/isiswardrobe/.  Thank you Elisa Edgren for finding these amazing images.  Gen coleur is the term for free people of color during the late 18th century and into the 19th century.  Free people of color from places like Santa Dominigo which I think is now Haiti and also Louisana when it was a French owned land in North America, were labeled Gen Coleur.  In anycase, finding images of free blacks during the 18th century is difficult.  So, when I stumbled on these, I was thrilled and want to share.

Attirbuted to Jean-Etienne Liotard

 Isn't she absolutely beautiful!  The artist did a beautiful job rendering her skin tones and the sweetness of her character.

Attributed to Pehr Hillestrom - This one reminds me of having tea with my fellow 18th century enthusiasts.

Often the only focus for images during this time were of enslaved people - which is of course the reality in European and Early American history.  However, we often forget or ignore the fact that there were free people of color that filled many levels of society - perhaps in segregation but covered a wide ranges of class levels. 

Here is another image I found but I can't remember what website or blog I got this so, I know that is totally bad form, but I hope you will forgive me.

Free women and men of color.

Enjoy.

Le Modiste: Summer Frock in the planning

A couple of weekends ago one of my best friends and her husband came up to the Bay Area to attend an Art Deco Society of California event.  The day after the event we got up early - an amazing accomplishment after a night of Art Deco partying - and went off to the Alameda Flea Market.  alamedapointantiquesfaire.com.  Not planning to buy anything, I scored at the last minute 7 yards of fabric for...wait for it!  $7.00!  It is a narrow width fabric - cotton/linen blend and printed.  I couldn't believe my luck!  Here is the fabric:

34" width

The fabric doesn't have any manufacturing information on the salvages which I understand only came into recent habit after 1979 or there about.  However, I would probably date this to be 40's to early 50's.  What do you think?  In any case, I immediately thought a nice summer frock would be a great idea for this fabric. I came home and started rummaging through my pattern stash and came up with a few possibilities:

I have made this one before and I like the fit and look.  But perhaps this is a little too tailored?  How about something very feminine?

 I like the one on the right  but if I made the one on the left I would want to make a matching bolero to go over it.

 I like this one especially the back detail.  However, I am not sure I will have enough fabric for the skirt which is a circle skirt - that would be a great deal of piecing that I am not sure I am up for that.  Could I use the bodice and put a slimmer skirt on it?  Or would that kill the over all look?

I like this one but I worry about the gathers across the bust.  Not always a good idea for busty ladies.

Still trying to figure out what to do,  I went to the fabric store and found that Vogue has released two more vintage patterns that might actually work with this fabric. I didn't get them as I wanted to wait till I got to Joanne Fabrics where I can get them discounted.  As soon as I get them I will add them to the next post.  So if any of you want to weigh in on the conundrum of what do with this fabulous fabric, please post a comment! 

Oh, Happy Mothers Day to all you ladies out there!  Not a Mom yet?  No worries, cheers to you any way, we all mother in our own ways either as an aunt, sister, cousin or godmother.  So enjoy a beautiful day and share the art of living with someone you love.

Le Modiste: Titanic Dinner Dress done! A success!

The dress was completely done a week ago, yet, I had to finish the detailing and made some minor changes to the neckline and sleeves.  With that said, I was hand sewing up till about noon on the day of the event!  I didn't feel rushed but I really wish I would get these planned event gowns or ensembles done ahead of time so I can relax.  Ha. Ha, Ha!

Detail:  Bodice neck outlined in velvet picot ribbon.  Sequin/beaded applique center front.  Embossed Velvet butterfly where strap meets the bodice.

Tassel and button tab on over-skirt hem at the sides where it dips towards the ankle.

Close-up of butterfly applique with added seed beads.

Belt Front detail.  This is totally different from the original idea but worked well.

Belt Back detail. 

 The over all look was just as I had envisioned it with some minor changes for the better.  My hair also came out like I wanted it to.  I have chin length hair so getting the  1919 look was going to take some hair manipulation and hair pieces.  So, this is the result:

I waved the front from a side part.  The ends were tightly curled then fluffed out at the ears.

The bun was a wrap of a false braid and pinned to a fair-thee-well to my head.  The headband came from Target 2 years ago!

The event itself was beautiful!  It was held at the Bellevue Club in Oakland.  The rooms are very Edwardian Rococo.  The meal was a version of the actual last dinner on the Titanic, in the 1st class dining room.

Here are some images from the event - Enjoy!

Le Modiste: Titanic Dinner Dress - Nearly done!

The dress came together rather well.  It isn't completely done yet but I am getting there.  I have one week to finish it!

Of course the results never match my initial 'sketches' or plans.  I tend to work with an over all look in mind and flesh it out as I draft or manipulate patterns, go shopping in my stashes and pick up other materials.  Also, as I was putting this together I was watching my DVD's of Downton Abbey 2.  Lavina's dinner dresses fast became my inspiration for the final structure and details.

The overdress has an uneven hem that dips to a point on the sides and rises to below knee length front and back.

The bodice front has a shirred center front at the bust.  One of Lavina's dresses had this detail.

Simple square back.  I am thinking of putting putting some sort of decoration where the straps meet the neckline front and back.  Not sure yet about that.  What do you think?

The sketch evolved as I said.   (See previous post). The ribbon work samples at the bottom are my inspiration for the belt. These images are from one of the Dover books on Ribbon Work.  (See below).

A close up of the belt ideas.  I want to do a belt like the one in the upper right but the bow will be like the one to the left set vertically.  What do you think?

I played with my hair last week while I was on vacation.  I think even with my chin length hair I will be able to put together a look where the front is waved and curled at the ears and then I can arrange a false braid/bun in the back.  Now the question is, tiara or go with a more 1919 bandeau?  Given I only have a week left and I am not done with the dress, it may be 'tiara'.  Love my tiaras!  :)

Shoes!  I didn't have time or the extra cash to order the beautiful shoes that American Duchess has produced - Astoria - http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-shoes.  However,  I just looked at the website and they won't be ready till May anyway.  Sigh.  They would have been perfect!  So, I will be in search of shoes this week.  In the end, I may buy a pair of Capezio dance shoes - you know the good ol' Mary Jane shoes often do the trick.  Or find a pair of pumps.

Lots to do, so I better get going!  Keep checking in for the final installments on this project.  I hope to provide pictures of the gown in situ - at the event.

Le Modiste: A dinner dress for GBACG Titanic Event

Hello!  I have been on Spring break a week and I just got an opportunity to post something.  Between catching up with house work and other long forgotten things to do,  I have been working on a dinner dress for the Greater Bay Area Costume Guild's Titanic Dinner event.  Of course as we know the Titanic was tragically sunk in 1912.  Many of my friends who are attending will be wearing that era silhouette.  However, I made the conscious decision to go with 1919.  Why?  Well, I am not very fond of that particular part of the pre-teen fashions, I am not thrilled about how it looks on me.  With that said, I prefer Teens fashions and have been using Downton Abbey as my inspiration.   Additionally, I do more Art Deco events than pre WWII events so that sold me on going 1919.

The design I started with was 1912 and I kept wrinkling up my nose each time I sketched different designs.  I will confess that my favorite is the Janet Arnold 1909-10 evening dress in black silk net over a ivory satin under garment.  But, that is for a very small busted person who slim.  Me?  Well, let's just say that is not my figure.  Sigh.  But!  My choice of design will work well and will - though not period to the Titanic - look more fashion forward for an uppty minx like me.  LOL!

Here is my preliminary design:

I am planning to use the brocade for the over dress and no sleeves at all.  The under dress (skirt) will be velvet.  I have a burn out velvet for the straps. 

I hope to give you all an update soon.  Cheers

Le Modiste: Sewing Chatelaine

Hey, I am back!  Apologies once again for being MIA.  Lots of reasons but none that warrant sharing.  None the less, I have something beautiful to share.  The back story is that I was not able to attend a gift exchange that my Stitch and Bitch group enjoy annually on 12th Night.  Being absent I was unable to receive my gift from my secret Santa.  In February at another SnB meeting, my secret Santa gave me my gift.  It was this beautiful sewing chatelaine!  She made it using a Godey's pattern.  Here it is!

It has a needle book, a pouch for thimble and thread winder, scissors and a pin card.

The top is a beautiful multi-petaled bow with a hook to allow it to hang from skirt waist.

Details of the business ends of the ribbons.

I was so touched by her time and effort to make me such a lovely gift.  Goodness me!  I will have to make an ensemble for this!  I think it would get lost on my latest Dicken's Christmas faire dress you saw on an earlier post. http://lachatelainechocolat.blogspot.com/2011/12/le-modiste-1840s-successfully-completed.html.  The pattern of the dress would totally fight with the ribbon pattern.  Well, I was planning a different outfit for next year - oops this year's Dicken's event - something I don't have to wear a bonnet with.  Yes, I love the bonnet I made but I hate wearing them.  I am a jaunty hat girl.  Anyone with me on that?

Nonetheless, I have told my friend repeatedly that she could do an Etsy site for her products.  I am sure there are other ladies of a sewing nature that would love this for their re-enactment outfits.  Like I said, she used a primary source - a period Godey's book - to craft this, so those who have to wear 'authentic' tools and accessories, would this work?  I will certainly encourage her to really consider sharing her talents!

Next on my horizon: 1).  Designing and making a dinner dress for the GBACG Titanic Dinner (April)  2).  Pull out the fabric and design I created 2 years ago for the Art Deco Society of California's Preservation ball.  The dress will totally work for this years ball because we are celebrating the 75th Anniversary of the Golden Gate Bridge.  The dress is crepe silk in an orange red that is similar to the deco period industrial orange!  (May)