Le Modiste: Update - Regency wardrobe in the making

Phew!  I am finally on vacation and can concentrate on my wardrobe for the Jane Austen Festival in Bath, this September.  In my last post I was working on a pale celadon green, wool pelisse.  It was a success!  I wore it to a Tea given by the Greater Bay Area Costume Guild along with the Laughing Moon dress I made in April.  Here are some images:

With my BFFs at Tea.  The brown dress is also a Laughing Moon examples.

Even though it was a cool morning that day, I was glad we were done by 3 - it became a sweltering day!

The picture of myself in the pelisse isn't the best but the only one I have in context.  Anyway, I am now working on the next pieces.  You know, once you get into making Regency clothing, you see all sorts of possibilities!  I can't take it all on the trip but, I will try!  LOL.

I am currently working on a spencer, another wardrobe necessity.  I have a brush twill cotton in Navy which I have lined in silk of the same color.  The shell is done and I am preparing the sleeves right now.  The design is a mix and match of different extant example and yes, a 'BBC film' image.

I used a two piece sleeve and added a puff of silk.

 I plan to put a decorative dagged or Vandyke epaulet on top of the silk, similar to the design below of Miss Elizabeth Bennet of P&P.

This satin spencer from the Museo de Traje is the inspiration for the neck line.

As a note:  I don't tend to make replicas as I find it tooo stressful to make it exactly as it should be.  One day I will one day, but given I have a limited amount of time - though I am on vacation - I am doing my usual picking out of exciting details that appeal to me and fashioning a garment from those extant ideas.  I am also, not doing the main construction by hand. I am however, doing all the finishing by hand, including putting in linings, buttonholes, etc.

As of now, I have enough day dresses.  I want to make more of course as each time I make one I get a better feel for the cut and fit and I find more exciting fabric to make others.  What I need right now, however, are the outer wear pieces (pelisse for the rain, spencer and perhaps a caplet). Additionally, I need hats that will pack and two ball gowns. After that it is all icing on the cake. Oh, wait, there is a night gown and wrapper, another chemise and a few chemisettes!  Oh, dear, I better get busy.

I should have something to post by the end of next week.  My goals for the remainder of June is to finish the spencer, start and finish the first ball gown.  Lots to do...Cheers.

Evening Out! Bal di Carnival

The Greater Bay Area Costume Guild had a fantastic affair a few weeks back.  The Bal di Carnival was at the Saint Claire Hotel in San Jose, California.  The 1920's Spanish-Moorish stye of the building lent itself to the atmosphere.  It was set for 18th century but everyone was encouraged to take that and run with it.  Here is the event:

The event was a lot of fun!   Salute!

Le Modiste: 1885 Bustle

5 years ago, my God daughter was a 'debutante' and all her aunties came to the event.  The trick was that the event was part of a ball event that PEERS (Period Events and Entertainments Recreations Society) puts on every 1st Saturday of the month.  The theme of this ball was one of Queen Victoria's granddaughters (my God daughter) was to make her debut into society.  So, it was a high Victorian affair.

All of us made 1885 ball gowns.  Mine was a pink and black affair using a Chinese brocade.  That being said, this Christmas I needed a bustle gown to wear to the annual Christmas Tea at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco given by the Greater Bay Area Costume Guild.  I actually had enough fabric left over to make the day time bodice for this event.  I used the Truly Victorian French Vest bodice which I adore.  A friend of mine blocked a black straw hat for me and the ensemble came together quite well.  So, without further ado, here is the upcycle of my ball gown into a day ensemble.

Starting from the beginning - chemise, stockings, corset.

My bustle petticoat has crinoline ruched with embroidered cotton covers layering the back,
plus a bustle pad buttoned in at the waist.  No hoop wire to deal with.

At the Palace.  All dressed.  I love my new hat!

The event was lovely and we had a good time.  The Palace was built in 1875, was nearly destroyed by the 1906 earthquake but survives to day as a landmark hotel in San Francisco.  Worth a trip to see the Maxfield Parish original in their bar and the beautiful room they use for dining that was once the carriage round about for guest arriving prior to the earthquake.  

Here are some images of the other patrons who attended:

My sweet friend Irene who is a lead draper for the SF Opera.

Other patrons...The bronze pink dress in the center was fabulous - wish I had gotten
a front view of this gown, it was gorgeous.

My dearest friends Rita, Sheila and Walter.

Our Table.

Irene and Catherine.  Catherine was our hostess for the event as Lady Astor.  She also used
Truly Victorian as her base pattern.

Just in case I don't get a chance to post before New Years day,  Happy New Year and may 2014 bring the joy, love, hope and prosperity you need to move forward in your life's journey and enjoy it.  Cheers!

http://www.peersdance.org/

http://www.gbacg.org/

http://www.trulyvictorian.com/

Le Modiste: Titanic Dinner Dress done! A success!

The dress was completely done a week ago, yet, I had to finish the detailing and made some minor changes to the neckline and sleeves.  With that said, I was hand sewing up till about noon on the day of the event!  I didn't feel rushed but I really wish I would get these planned event gowns or ensembles done ahead of time so I can relax.  Ha. Ha, Ha!

Detail:  Bodice neck outlined in velvet picot ribbon.  Sequin/beaded applique center front.  Embossed Velvet butterfly where strap meets the bodice.

Tassel and button tab on over-skirt hem at the sides where it dips towards the ankle.

Close-up of butterfly applique with added seed beads.

Belt Front detail.  This is totally different from the original idea but worked well.

Belt Back detail. 

 The over all look was just as I had envisioned it with some minor changes for the better.  My hair also came out like I wanted it to.  I have chin length hair so getting the  1919 look was going to take some hair manipulation and hair pieces.  So, this is the result:

I waved the front from a side part.  The ends were tightly curled then fluffed out at the ears.

The bun was a wrap of a false braid and pinned to a fair-thee-well to my head.  The headband came from Target 2 years ago!

The event itself was beautiful!  It was held at the Bellevue Club in Oakland.  The rooms are very Edwardian Rococo.  The meal was a version of the actual last dinner on the Titanic, in the 1st class dining room.

Here are some images from the event - Enjoy!

Le Modiste: A dinner dress for GBACG Titanic Event

Hello!  I have been on Spring break a week and I just got an opportunity to post something.  Between catching up with house work and other long forgotten things to do,  I have been working on a dinner dress for the Greater Bay Area Costume Guild's Titanic Dinner event.  Of course as we know the Titanic was tragically sunk in 1912.  Many of my friends who are attending will be wearing that era silhouette.  However, I made the conscious decision to go with 1919.  Why?  Well, I am not very fond of that particular part of the pre-teen fashions, I am not thrilled about how it looks on me.  With that said, I prefer Teens fashions and have been using Downton Abbey as my inspiration.   Additionally, I do more Art Deco events than pre WWII events so that sold me on going 1919.

The design I started with was 1912 and I kept wrinkling up my nose each time I sketched different designs.  I will confess that my favorite is the Janet Arnold 1909-10 evening dress in black silk net over a ivory satin under garment.  But, that is for a very small busted person who slim.  Me?  Well, let's just say that is not my figure.  Sigh.  But!  My choice of design will work well and will - though not period to the Titanic - look more fashion forward for an uppty minx like me.  LOL!

Here is my preliminary design:

I am planning to use the brocade for the over dress and no sleeves at all.  The under dress (skirt) will be velvet.  I have a burn out velvet for the straps. 

I hope to give you all an update soon.  Cheers