Lost my Way and now I am found...

Humbly, I ask everyone of my readers to a accept my apologies for the long silence.  November of last year was my last post and a lot has happened since then.  My distraction was my family and we have been through a roller coaster ride!  The ride was a wild one! As we all know, when life gets into an infinite loop of mishaps, traumas, trials and tribulations, you just have to go with the flow and learn to let go with out regrets.  Unfortunately, I had to let go of blogging...though the neglect buzzed like angry bees in the back of my mind.  Sigh.

Well, I finally got off the infinite loop of negativity, was able to count my blessings and shout out my gratitudes!  Things with my family are okay and settling down.  Becoming the parents of my parents has been hard, sad and yet, my own strength and resiliency is keeping my family moving on a new path and journey in time.  Thank God, for family friends and neighbors!  It is true that it takes a 'village' to support someone in a crisis and I am blessed with a fabulous 'village' of friends, family and just good folk.

My first post back and I am going to say - I finished a UFO (unfinished object)!  In the midst of chaos I found solace in needlework.  The peace and quiet of my own space, the needle and thread to cloth was where I felt happier, more focused and able to breath.  The 'object' was a chemisette that I wanted to make and wear to Bath, England, last year but didn't finish the embroidery in time.  Now, the embroidery is done as is the construction of the chemisette. It is now ready for Bath, 2016, of course I will be going again.  I will miss this year's festival, but 2016, here I come!

This was the beginning of the embroidery way back in the spring of 2014.

The finished piece this June 2015

A few details

Closer detail.

Now that it is done,  I am very happy and ready to make another...something different.  Must do some research.

At this time, I do not have any deadlines.  I have garments for various events coming up, so I can just use this free time to work on 'wish-list' projects.  My goal is to continue to create Regency era garments as close to Historically Authentic as I can, including the hand sewing.  When I return to Bath or attend any national or local Regency era events, I will be well and properly clothed.

I am also, during my summer vacation, want to revive my interest in period foods and preparations of said foods.  I hope to be blogging about that soon.

Thank you again for your patience and hanging in there with me.  I appreciate you all.

Cheers.

Happy New Year!

2014 is here!  I hope that this new year's day has found you healthy, happy and ready to begin the next chapter in your creative journey.  I am ready!  With the holiday celebrations behind me I am turning my eyes and mind to the year to come.  I have the Bath, England trip to think about and get garments ready by September.  There are a couple of minor events here California that I am planning to go to but at this point I don't think I have to make anything new for those...now that is a concept! I have a wardrobe to draw from!  Hurrah!  

As usual, I was sewing up to the last minute to get the day bodice for the 1885 bustle dress ready for the Christmas Tea at the Palace Hotel.  (See previous post).  Sigh, one day I will be able to not be sewing up to the last minute for an event!  Anyway, in fits and starts I have been working on the embroidery for my chemisette started, oh, way back in November?  Here are some updates:

Add caption

I am using a fern stitch, satin stitch and French knots.  The design is a simple trellis of leaf and 4 petal flower sprigs along the center front opening, up and around the neck.  The linen for the chemisette is not a bright white, so I had to go with an ivory embroidery floss.  I like the slight difference in the whites.

Next up on my sewing is to finish a Regency boned bodice petticoat, and continue the embroidery on the chemisette.  However, I am set to make an 18th century riding habit by hand.  Yes, by hand.  I am working with friends to learn how to drape the jacket and vest.  I am excited about this and hope to share later on in February.  In the meantime, I will continue to work on the Regency wardrobe.

Again, to all my lovelies, please have a wonderful start to this new year.  Best wishes on your projects - come by often, say hello and I will be peeping in on you, too!  Cheers.

Le Modiste: Chemise and Chemisettes - 1800-1816

My finished chemise.  This particular piece is completely hand sewn - no machine work at all. So, once again, a triumph for 'vegan' sewing.    I used a light weight, moderately loose weave linen.  I also embroidered my initials at the center front of the neckline.

Next on my list is to make another chemise but not by hand. Or at least not totally.  That will give me 3 chemises to use on the trip and for events coming up next year.  

I am also working on a boned bodice petticoat.  This one is based off the La Bagatelle pattern.  I just got the mock up fitted and will begin the process of putting that together.  Yes, I do have a pair of half stays, as well.  I like having the options of both types of boned underpinnings. It will look similar to this:

My next research adventure is into chemisettes.   What is a chemisette?  Similar to the modern 'dickey' it fills in the neckline of a dress providing modesty as well as variation options in your ensemble.  I have been looking at chemisettes or fillers on a diverse group of portraits and extant pieces.  But before I dive into those inspiring pieces, I have one that I have been using for most of my early Victorian wear that has come in handy for my Regency day gowns.

I made this a while ago and it has been a nice serviceable piece but I will need at least a couple more to fill out my wardrobe.

Before I do that, I wanted to do a bit of research and see what variations might work well with my style and be as 'period' as possible.  So far, I have come across the following images that intrigued me:

Lieder painting c 1810

I like this as it looks pretty but not to 'girly' which may be more because of the 'militaire' look of the pelisse.

Portrait of a Woman - Henry Inman, 1825.

Even though this is from 1825, a bit past my time frame, I do like the look of this.  It feels at ease and comfortable, yet very proper and tasteful.

Elizabeth Salisbury uvm.edu

My personal taste and comforts run toward collars and ruffs that do not 'choke' or encase the neck. I had surgery around the base of my neck and it is no longer happy with close, fitting high collars. I believe that the above 3 styles would work for me. Essentially, they have a 'V' neck opening with the ruffled collars - both feminine and structured.  Of course starching the ruffles will be necessary in order to look wilted. Any recommendations for that would be helpful.  At this point I have fabric spray starch which will have to be used after each washing.

Additional inspiring images, found mostly on Pinterest:

Portrait of a young lady seated by her work table -- Robert Home

I really like this one.  It is embroidered and has long sleeves which provides another fashion option.  However, this begs a question, is this a chemisette or is it an underdress? Looking at it closely, I think that it is possibly a sleeved chemisette.  Why?  Educated guess being that it has a closure that is surplice at the front (folded over the bosom and pinned?).  However, it could be an underdress of a sheer and lightweight material.  Any thoughts?

Adèle Laplatte, Portrait of a young woman wearing taupe dress, 1809

Again, my personal approach to historical dress is simplicity.  Let the fabric and details do the talking, that it is, 'I' who wears the clothes and not the other way round.  This is my personal taste of course.  In anycase, this portrait is just simplistic prettiness to me.  The collar of the white under gown or chemisette allows the pelisse's details to stand out.

Now, what shall I make?  I think I want to make one with a collar like in the Robert Home portrait - so I will refer to this one as Chemisette Casual. Additionally, I want one similar to the portrait of Elizabeth Salisbury - which I will refer to as Chemisette Frilled.  Now to do some reconnoitering for super fine linen - hanky linen?  What would you suggest?  Also, lace. Much of the lace we have available now is machine lace that has poly in it.  Cotton laces tend to be a bit heavy.  Any suggestions from my dear readers would also be welcome on this point.  Oh, and, should I use organdy for the ruffles in the collar of the Chemisette Frilled?  Again, all suggestions are welcome.  If you have any links to possible purveyors of said materials, I am open to that information as well.  

Okay, ladies and gentlemen, I am off to do some sewing.  Stay tuned for the next post.

Happy All Saints Day!