Le Modiste: Celebrating the last days of Summer!

Annually, the Art Deco Society of California. http://www.artdecosociety.org/ has their last days of summer picnic at the Dunsmuir House in Oakland California http://www.dunsmuir-hellman.com/.This afternoon is always a fun and celebratory affair where we can dress up in our Deco frocks and hats, linen suits and boaters, then spread out picnic faire and dance the afternoon away!

I didn't go last year and missed it terribly.  This year I pulled out a dress that I started for the event and finished it.  I used a Decade of Style pattern http://www.decadesofstyle.com/, that I have used before with great success.

White linen, lime green vintage buttons, jade-like rings and lace

Everything was from my stash!  Didn't buy one new item.  Even the side zipper was a recycled item.  Anyway, I used a dress weight, white linen for the dress and belt.  The green lace made up the raglan sleeves.  The buttons were vintage ones but the rings were a find at JoAnne Fabrics!  Perfect color match!  The one thing I did that was different from the pattern was add this neck detail:

It is a typical detail for 1930's dresses and blouses to have bound openings and either scarf ends or some sort of fabric bow or tie threaded through the openings.  I tried this and I liked it.  This is how it turned out:

It was a pretty warm day, so the linen was very comfortable!

Aren't the cars fabulous!

On the Wagon as little Violet plays!

 Here are some more pictures of the overall event.  It was a glorious day of champagne, food, dancing and lots a well dressed folks!  Enjoy!

Next up:
Draping a Robe Anglaise, en fourreau (or English back).
Continue working on my Elizabethan embroidery sample
Up-cycle a bustle ball gown with a day bodice jacket
Possible Mid-Victorian Visting ensemble.

An Honor has been bestowed!

Sabine at  Kleidung um 1800 http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/ has awarded me the Liebster Blog award!  Sabine was recently awarded this award as well.  I must, first mention that, her nominators were certainly right to do so.  Sabine's blog is a wonderful source of creativity and information that with each visit there is a delight!  In the great tradition of blog honors and awards, Sabine has in turn given several other bloggers a 'shout out' for what they contribute to the community of creative people all over the world.  I am so pleased that Sabine thought highly enough of my blog to want to give me this wonderful 'hurrah!'

Per the protocol, I would like to share this award with 5 more blogs that I believe deserve a applause and commendation:

I would like to award this to Phil at Costumes de Phil http://philcostumes.blogspot.com/  His work is amazing!  Many of our fellow historical costume bloggers have been ladies but this gentleman is a wiz at tailoring historical men's fashions.  Very much eye candy to be sure.  Phil may not post often, as he is sewing and attending many period events in France but it is worth the wait when he produces his works of art.  He posts in French and English.

Madame Isis' Toilette http://madameisistoilette.blogspot.com/.  Her blog is fascinating and covers the area of fashionable period cosmetics.  I have always been interested in stillroom activities and the home remedies and chemistry that our foremothers used before the chemists and drug stores in our world came on the scene.  A definite must for the historical researcher.

Green Martha http://green-martha.blogspot.com/  Is another delightful blog to follow.   Marion Brégier is fun to follow.  Her post are full of information and she provides lots of visuals, too.  Her children are delightful in their historical fashions!  Her posts are all in French but you can use the 'translation' button.

Angela Thornhill at http://themerrydressmaker.blogspot.com/  in Ohio, posts about her historical re-enactments and sewing projects.  Her posts are very visual and full of information.  A definite stop for creative historical bloggers.

Last but not least, I want to also shout out for Rowenna at Hyaline Prosaic http://hyalineprosaic.blogspot.com/  She isn't currently posting because I think she is having her first baby!  However when she posts her work is beautiful!  She is involved in re-enactments in Indiana, USA.

There are so many more that I can mention but these are the five I wish to give a 'shout out' to for contributing so much to the historical community.  Now, my business is not done.  I will be emailing all 5 people and letting them know of my support of their work.    As receivers of this award, I ask Phil, Isis, Marion, Angela and Rowenna, to:

1. Add the award icon to your blog!
2. Link to your nominater to say "thank you“
3. Nominate 5 bloggers with less than 200 followers.

Thank you again, Sabine!  Thank you all who have just joined me and those who have been with me since the beginning.  Your faith in my work, your supportive comments and your cyber friendship is happy light of love and respect, thank you.


Coming up next:
A 1930's summer dress!

Le Modiste: Papillote Curls

Madame Grand by Elizabeth Lousie Vigee Le Brun 1783

Achieving the 18th century hairstyles alludes many of us who prefer a wash and go style in our everyday lives.  However, American Duchess found a YouTube presentation that I thought was fabulous.  If you follow the Duchess you may have already seen this.  However, if you do not please take a look at this presentation.  I found it easy to follow and feel that is doable by even those who do not normally fuss with their hair on a daily basis.




I hope that you will enjoy this YouTube video if you have not seen it before.  Those of us with super curly hair already may not require this method but it may help smooth things out a bit.  I have fine and frizzy hair that I have to flat iron if I want a straight style.  So, I will have to experiment with this method to see how to best utilize the techniques the Ms. Stephens shares.



Next up:

Learning to drape a Robe Anglaise
Still working on my Renaissance embroidery sampler.

Le Modiste: Elizabethan Sampler

While I am helping my Mom during her recuperation from full knee replacement - We now call her the Bionic Grandma - I have had time to work on hand sewing projects.  I did finish my 18th century cap - all sewn by hand but I can't get a good picture of it, so I apologize and will post a picture later when I can get a better image.

I have started an Elizabethan embroidery sampler in hopes of one day embroidering my own fitted jacket from the later period  - 1600-1610.  I had a piece of oatmeal colored linen and I am using dark blue silk embroidery thread.  Here is a preview of my start:

My stitching isn't consistent but I am really enjoying the process.

An expanded view.

The pea-pod motif I saw 30 years ago on a woman's jacket of the time period and I have always been in love with it.  I am still searching for a whole image of the jacket as I lost the book it was in.  However, I found this a small image of the embroidery in a recent book, I think it was Tudor Tailor.

I am not quite sure I am using the correct stitches or not but I am enjoying experimenting.  What I am using is a back stitch instead of a stem stitch, should I be using something else?  I looked through Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 4 which featured cuffs, caps, chemises, shifts and shirts and collars.  However, they don't really explain all the stitches so I am imitating the best way I know how.

There is one person,  Bjarne Drews, from whom I would love to take embroidery classes from!  http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/  No, he doesn't offer any classes that I know of.  Also, he resides in Denmark.  Sigh.  It would be totally worth the trip to learn from him.  This man is amazing and is an inspiration!  He embroiders 18th century gowns and accessories by hand.  He is amazing.  Did I mention that already?  If you go to his web page (it is in Danish) you will love his work.  If you are on Face Book - find his page and take a look. 

Note to self:  Take final pictures of hand sewn cap from Kannik Korner and post on it.

Pique-Nique: Bastille Day

A group of friends gathered to commemorate Bastille Day but with the intent of raising a glass of champagne to those departed in the horrifying reign of terror that followed.  Our hopes were to have a beautiful sunny day.  The days before the event were overwhelmingly gloomy and cold, - yes, in July! Yet,  the weather Gods smiled on us and we had a fantastic afternoon of sunshine and warm but not hot temperatures.

We were a small gathering but a good group of like-minded people willing to gather in period fashion with all the trimmings of dining and enjoying each other's company.  Without further ado, here are some highlights from our day.

This wonderful lady has a habadashery shop called:  Renaissance Fabrics.  See link below.

We had a lovely time.  Many of these ladies have created their gowns various lesson learned at Costume College and from the wonderful ladies and gentlemen at Margaret hunter Shop:  Milliners and Mantuamakers in Colonial Williamsburg. http://www.colonialwilliamsburg.com/do/revolutionary-city/tour-the-city/milliner/  This link is to the CW site explanation of the Milliner site.  On Facebook look up Margaret...as written above.  You will see some of these ladies in the recent posts.

Another Link to share:  http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/

Next up:
Mainly hand sewing projects.  I want to finish my Kannik Korner Womans Cap (http://www.kannikskorner.com/)  that I didn't get done before the party.  I borrowed one of my friends.  I love my friends!  :)  I also plan to play with embroidery and hand sewing techniques for future use.

Dear readers:  I will try to post as often as I can over the next three weeks.  I will be moving over to my parents house in order to help and support my 84 year old Mother who is having her left knee replaced. Therefore it is likely that my postings will dwindle a bit as my focus will be on my mother's recovery and getting ready to return to work - I am a teacher and I need to work on my curriculum for this coming fall.  So, please be patient, check back often and please leave comments!  I love hearing from you all.  Cheers.

Le Modiste: Infant's chemise

I do not have children of my own but one of my best girl friends has a darling little girl that I can sew for.  After all what are Aunties for?  As we are attending an 18th century picnic next Saturday and little Violet will need a dress to wear.  She is, of course, growing every minute therefore I made a chemise based on Sharon Anne Burnston's website instructions. http://www.sharonburnston.com/baby_linen/index.html

I made a sloper (mock-up of muslin) first.

I used an ivory damask cotton I had lying around.  Here are the results:

She was so happy with her chemise her feet wouldn't stop moving!  :)

Sewing for so small a person is amazing.  My machine took a temporary bunk and I had to hand stitch the ruffles on the sleeves which took all but 10 minutes for both.  The ruffle edges were hand stitched then gathered before being attached to the sleeve edges.  Now all she needs is a sash and her other Auntie is going to make her a cap.  I will definitely take pictures at the picnic to see her all dressed!

Next up:

Victorian corset on hold
Embroider sampler moved up to priority.

Le Modiste: Summer Frock 1918

With the celebration of my country's birthday, I planned to attend a 4th of July back yard party at the Pardee Home Museum in downtown Oakland.  Two friends were performing there and others and as well as myself joined in to add historical atmosphere to this Victorian home.  Most of us went in either teens or early Art Deco wear.  I decided, since I am still under the influence of "Downton Abbey", to create an 1918 summer frock.    My inspiration was the Folkwear  Armistice Blouse and other images from the Dover book I have - Russel's Standard Fashions - 1915-1919:

I had bought, ages ago, a dupioni silk gingham thinking I was going to make a nice 1950's summer evening dress.  Really? What was I thinking?  Checks/strips for a circle skirt?  Obviously it didn't happen so it is now a wonderful teens frock that worked out really well.   Here was the plan of my design with swatches:

The overall design was to use the Armistice pattern and attach a skirt.

Originally I had planned to trim the white collar and cuffs in solid blue.  In the end it was to hard looking.

I love blue and white!

I actually made this dress once before but it looked really bad on me for a number of reasons.  1).  I was a 36 DDD at the time (yes, I had those girls reduced!) and I have no hips so I looked very top heavy in the high waisted dress.  2).  I chose a very flimsy cotton and it just drooped and looked limp and added to the bad proportions.  Lesson learned?  Crisp fabrics work best to give this look the shape I need.

I was really pleased with the outcome and I was able to use the belt I made for the proto type referred to  above.  The belt was made from a 3.5" Oriental embroidered ribbon or trim.

The belt!

Details of the cuffs on 3/4 sleeves

Detail of the neckline.

The buttons I used were actually white fabric covered buttons I bought by the gross from Jessica McClintok's outlet in San Francisco what seems like one hundred years ago.  Anyway, I didn't have time to make buttons or go looking for them, so I painted the white ones!  At a very frustrating moment it hit me I had fabric paint sitting around from other old projects and painting the buttons would/might work!  I mixed ultramarine blue and black.  After about 3 coats with drying time in between, they came out great!

At the event.

I forgot to get a full shot of the whole dress on at the event, but took one at home a wee bit crumpled.

The hat, believe it or not, I got a Marshall's one summer ago. It is a nice black straw with a deep crown and the perfect brim for teen's and 1920's.  At some point I will probably switch out the ribbon at the crown later.  My boots are from way back when I did a lot of Victorian events but still fit!
Overall, I was comfortable and I felt cool and pretty....oops, was that a bit immodest?  :)


Next up:
Make an 18th century chemise dress for a 9th month old
Redo Victorian Corset
Play around with embroidery samplers a la Renaissance and Alabama Chanin.